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Video/Photo Collage
July 19, 2010

As promised, here is the photo/video collage related to my expedition this year.  

Note the one constant throughout the video: high winds.  The weather never let up!

Attached is the written confirmation from the Chinese that I have been accepted on the North side in 2011. 

Bill



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erf3bOIoYY8


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pmMOUVxJuU

lETTER.jpg
Everest Redux 2011
Date: July 15, 2010


Dear Family & Friends:

You will recall from my last post that, in June, the Chinese placed age restrictions on North (Tibet) side climbs.  Under the CTMA regulations, no one under the age of 18, or over the age of 60, will receive a permit to climb Mt. Everest from the North side.

Great news!  Asian Trekking has just informed me that the Chinese have granted me special permission to climb Mt. Everest from the North side in 2011.  I am thrilled since I can now complete this unfinished business. If I feel good after the North side summit next year, I will try for a double summit on both the North and South sides.  If the Chinese permit traverses next year, I will switch to that option.

I have relived summit day 2010 over and over in my mind.  I recall, like it was yesterday, clipping into the fixed line at Camp 3 (27,500 feet) on the night of May 22.  The wind was blowing furiously, it was pitch black dark and sub-zero cold.  I knew immediately that I frostnipped some fingers through my heavy gloves the moment I tightly gripped my jumar attached to the line.  I recall yearning to reach the Northeast summit ridge so I could make the right turn and complete the relatively easy traverse to the summit at 29,035 feet.  I felt a sense of awe and relief as I approached the summit ridge framed against the black horizon.  I reached the summit ridge, feeling confident and good, and made the right turn, heading for the First, Second and Third Steps before moving up the snowfield to the peak.  At the Second Step, approximately 700 feet from the summit, I felt the energy drain from my body.  My legs turned to jelly, and I knew that my trip was over.  It was really quite an easy call, and one that I celebrate to this day.  Two climbers that followed me on succeeding days are still on the mountain and will never come home to family and friends.

Maybe I am being too stubborn about this mountain.  But, summit, or no summit, I love the experience, and I am counting the days to my return.  Dreams rooted in the heart are slow to die.  In the next few days, I will post some photos and video of my climb this year.  Perhaps, these will help explain my passion with respect to Chomolangma--“Mother Goddess of the Earth.” 

My Sherpa for 2011 will not be my beloved friend, Mingma, who has been my Sherpa for the last three years. Mingma will be the Sirdar for the expedition and will have overall responsibility for the entire trip.  My Sherpa will be Fur Gyalzen, who has summited Mt. Everest multiple times.  I know him well and am comfortable with this change.  I am also happy for Mingma since this is a huge step forward in his mountaineering career.  Mingma also has accepted a job as a local Kathmandu television reporter so he will soon be a media star.
 
This year, because of work and family commitments, I did not start serious training until January, 2010.  For the 2011 expedition, I plan to start training immediately so that I will be in top physical condition when I return in April of 2011 at the age of 69. 

As always, I appreciate your prayers and support, and I will keep you informed of my plans.

God bless you,
Bill
Back Home, Pictures from the Trip
Costa Mesa, Ca.

June 21, 2010

Dear Family & Friends:

I’m home, feeling great and gaining back some of the 15 pounds I lost on the mountain.

In the next couple of weeks, I will be posting an 18-minute video/photo review of my 2010 Everest trip on the North (Tibet) side of the mountain.  In the meantime, I have selected a few photos you may enjoy.  The last photo shows my turnaround point at the Second Step near the base of the famous Summit Triangle.

Last week, I received some really depressing news.  My plan was to return to Everest next year to complete my unfinished business on the North side.  Unfortunately, on June 10, 2010, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association placed age restrictions on North side climbs.  No one under the age of 18 or over the age of 60 will be issued a climbing permit.  The ban was sparked by the controversy surrounding young climbers, but, unfortunately, was extended to seniors.

The CTMA regulations state that exceptions can be made for climbers who produce a medical certificate stating they are fit to climb a high altitude mountain, but it is unclear how this exception will be applied in individual cases.  Asian Trekking advises me that I would present a strong case for application of the exception because of (i) my South side summit last year, (ii) my careful and conservative climbing style as evidenced by my decision to turn around at the South summit in 2007 and the Second Step this year and (iii) the fact I have climbed the highest mountain on every continent, all after reaching the age of 60. If I can’t return to Everest, I will start looking more closely at the Poles.

This was just a great year for me on Everest even though I didn’t touch the summit.  The views were spectacular (much better than the South side), and I felt strong and healthy the whole time I was on the mountain.  The weather would just not cooperate, and I did not get that much needed rest day at high camp.  But, I am happy with my performance on the mountain and my decision to make the turn at the Second Step.  Tragically, two climbers after me reached the summit from the North side but died on the way down.  Their bodies are still on the mountain.

My attitude about the climb this year is undoubtedly helped by my summit last year.  The great climbers all talk about following your instincts and moving down when conditions, physical or external, don’t seem right.  I don’t compare myself to these legends, by any stretch of the imagination, but I am happy to take lessons from their experience.  

Thanks to all of you who followed my trip this year, and a special thanks to those of you who posted words of encouragement on my blog.  I was inspired and motivated by this support, and I love all of you.

God bless you,

Bill Burke

(click picture for large version)

01 The Team.jpg
The Team

02 David & Bill.jpg
David & Bill

03 Mingma, Bill & Ang Sona.jpg
Mingma, Bill & Ang Sona

04 Route to the summit on the North side (photo courtesy of Alan Arnette).jpg
Route to the summit on the North Side (photo courtesy of Alan Arnette)

05 Showering at Base Camp.jpg
Showering at Base Camp

06 Mt. Everest from Base Camp.jpg
Mt. Everest from Base Camp

07 Everest after a heavy snow.jpg
Everest after a heavy snow

08 Summit view .jpg
Summit view

09 Heavy winds on the summit.jpg
Heavy winds on the summit

10 Advance Base Camp (17,000 feet).jpg
Advanced Base Camp (21,000 feet)

11 Moving up the headwall to Camp 1 .jpg
Moving up the headwall to Camp 1

12 Camp 1 on the North Col (23,000 feet).jpg
Camp 1 on the North Col (23,000 feet)

13 Camp 1 with the route to Camp 2 and the summit in the background.jpg
Camp 1 with the route to the Camp 2 and the summit in the background

14 Moving to Camp 2.jpg
Moving to Camp 2

15 Camp 2 (24,750 feet).jpg
Camp 2 (25,300 feet)

16 Mingma & Bill moving to Camp 3.jpg
Mingma & Bill moving to Camp 3

17 Camp 3 (27,400 feet) with the summit ridge in the background.jpg
Camp 3 (27,400 feet) with the summit ridge in the background

18 Camp 3 and the summit.jpg
Camp 3 and the summit

19 View from Camp 3.jpg
View from Camp 3

20 The summit ridge & the Second Step (where I turned around).jpg
The summit ridge & the Second Step (where I turned around)




Sad News
May 29, 2010
Kathmandu, Nepal
 
Dear Friends:
 
I am deeply saddened to inform you that Sharon's Mom, Phyllis Smestad, went to be with the Lord on May 28, 2010.  She was 88-years old and was living in an assisted living facility near our home in Costa Mesa. She had been in ill health for the last few years. 
 
Phyllis was a devoted and loving wife, Mom, daughter, sister, aunt, grandmother and great-grandmother.  She had been married to Sharon's Dad, Orson, for 61-years when he passed away in February of 2003.  Their marriage was so strong and special that she was never the same after Orson died.  Phyllis and Orson had 6 children.  Sharon was their oldest child and only daughter.
 
Phyllis was a truly great Mother-in-Law, and I loved her dearly.  We will all miss her greatly.  Please keep the entire family in your prayers. 
 
I love you Sharon,
 
Bill 
Thick Air And Cold Showers


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A Few Remembrances


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Team Roundup


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Ran Out Of Gas


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Turned Around...
I got a phone call tonight from Bill at 7:50 PM.  He was back at Camp 3 after reaching the "Second Step" and turning around.  He said it was dark, windy, cold, and his legs got very weak and wobbly.  He said it was the same feeling he had in 2007 when he turned around.  He knew he couldn't make it to the summit and then back down.  He will be posting when he gets down to a lower level and gets some energy back. I'm so proud of what he has accomplished and now I want him to get back home.

Sharon Burke 
Have You Seen My Phone?


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Moving Up


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Link mentioned by Bill in the report
Getting Ready For The Big Push Again


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More Minutes, News on David


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A Rescue Story


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Back at Everest Base Camp, What's Next?


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High Winds at Advanced Base Camp


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Happy Mother's Day


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The Weather, Again


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Example weather report mentioned by Bill in the Audio Recording:

Forecast issued

Friday  May 7, 5:00 pm West Coast USA time, Nepal time is about 6:00 am Saturday Nepal time. Next detailed forecast by Saturday May 8 at about 9 pm West Coast time USA, Nepal time is about 10:00 am Sunday

Saturday May 8

Increase in winds as jet gets close to the region

Average Summit winds  40 to 60 mph (64 to 96  km/hr) west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 26,000 feet (7878 meters)  30 to 50 mph (48 to 80  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 24,000 feet (7272 meters)  30 to 40 mph (48 to 64  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Precipitation in water equivalent not inches of snow (at 20,000 feet (6060 meters)   0  to 0.50 inches (12.5 mm). 15% chance of getting up to 0.50 inches (12.5 mm). Also 70% chance of getting less than 0.10 inches (2.5 mm) . Not sure why some models are showing up to .50 inches (12.5 mm) given northwest flow..

A basic conversion is 0.10 inches (12.5 mm) in water equivalent is  equal to about  1 inch of snow

Summit Clouds:  Not many perhaps just a few early.

Temperatures Night summit temperatures close to -18 F ( -28 C). Models do not indicate much change from the prior day,

Sunday May 9 to Thursday May 13

Jet is over Everest

Average Summit winds  70 to 80 mph (112 to 128  km/hr) west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 26,000 feet (7878 meters)  50 to 60 mph (80 to 96  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 24,000 feet (7272 meters)  40 to 60 mph (64 to 96  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Precipitation in water equivalent not inches of snow (at 20,000 feet (6060 meters) Trace if any  15% chance of getting a trace.  With winds at a dry northwest flow moisture and clouds will be limited. .

A basic conversion is 0.10 inches (12.5 mm) in water equivalent is  equal to about  1 inch of snow

Summit Clouds:  Not many perhaps just a few.

Temperatures Night summit temperatures close to  Night summit temperatures cool slightly to close to -22 F ( -30 C)  for Thursday May 13.

Friday May 14 to Saturday May 15

Some models suggest reduction in winds, it if happens it will probably be a slow process

Average Summit winds  50 to 70 mph (80 to 112  km/hr) west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 26,000 feet (7878 meters)  40 to 55 mph (64 to 88  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Average Winds at 24,000 feet (7272 meters)  30 to 40 mph (48 to 64  km/hr)  west to northwest.  

Precipitation in water equivalent not inches of snow (at 20,000 feet (6060 meters) Trace if any  15% chance of getting a trace.  With winds at a dry northwest flow moisture and clouds will be limited. .

A basic conversion is 0.10 inches (12.5 mm) in water equivalent is  equal to about  1 inch of snow

Summit Clouds:  Not many perhaps just a few.

Temperatures Night summit temperatures close to  Night summit temperatures close to -22 F ( -30 C)

 

*****************************************************************************************************************************************

 Summary

Short term summary now through Thursday  May 13

Jet stream and associated strong winds is to the west of our region and these winds will migrate toward our region by Sunday. The net impact will be a dry northwest flow developing by Sunday and strong northwest winds on Monday through at least Thursday May 13. As we mentioned in other forecasts these winds are reinforced by a trough of low pressure to the north of our region. Dry weather will also be the theme for Sunday through Thursday.

Medium term summary Friday May 14 to Sunday  May 16

Some forecasts suggest lower winds but from what I’m seeing we might have some minor decrease in winds but winds I would not expect much of a decrease since there is an upper level low that starts to move in from the north and east and this will tend to keep the winds relatively high but below jet stream levels.  Not much on the forecast horizon in terms of precipitation..

Estimated Real Time Summit Weather  on  Friday  May 7,  8 am Nepal time 

Very limited data close to 10 mph (16 km/hr) from the west but should be increasing during day

Forecast Models-Confidence

With 5 being the highest level of confidence and 0 being the lowest I would give the wind forecast and precipitation forecast from Sunday  May 9 to Thursday May 13 a rating of 4.5 of confidence

 Jet Stream 

The jet stream will be over the region by late Saturday May 8 and Sunday May 9 and then remain over the region through much of the week

 Monsoon 

The monsoon is not yet active but some very early signs in the southern part of the Bay of Bengal.

Storms in Bay of Bengal

So far there  has not been any storms in the Bay nor are there any forecasted through at least Friday May 14

Longer term forecast starting  Sunday   May 16 to Tuesday May 19

Hardest part of the forecast since many are looking at these dates for summit and I must say “if” there is a window it might be rather short. Might get a break in winds of close to 30 mph (48 km/hr) on May 17 or May 18 but that can quickly end by May 19 as another upper low starts to drop down from the north. Finally lower confidence in this forecast at this point in time

West Coast Weather, LLC

This forecast is based on computer generated weather data generated from government agencies that West Coast Weather, LLC. dab Washington Online Weather deems reliable.  However, the weather can change quickly and unforeseeably, and there are many factors which you should consider in deciding whether to proceed with an outing, including the visible weather at the trailhead, the strength and experience of the party, snow and avalanche conditions, route conditions, etc.  You are the final decision maker whether to proceed. West Coast Weather, LLC dba Washington Online Weather cannot be held liable for loss or injury arising from your decision to proceed, and expressly disclaims all liability related thereto.  


New Schedule, Waiting on Fixed Lines


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Start of the Big Push


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