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I will use a
satellite telephone to call in reports to my
wife, Sharon. Sharon will post my reports on
this page. I will do my best to make these
reports short and interesting. I plan to post 6 reports on summit day: (i) upon departure
from Camp IV at the South Col (26,000 feet),
(ii) upon arrival at the Balcony (27,600 feet),
(iii) upon arrival at the South Summit (28,750
feet), (iv) upon arrival at the Hillary Step
(28,900 feet), (v) upon arrival at the Summit
(29,035 feet) and (vi) upon return to the South
Col.
If you encounter
problems in registering or in receiving notices of
trip reports, please send an email to
eightsummits@gmail.com
-----Click here to see
the latest post-----
| Date |
Report |
| 7/31/2008 |
Dear Family & Friends:
I hope you are all having a great summer. We are.
I posted a few photos on my website from our 2008 Everest trip. After returning from Nepal in mid-April, I rested a month. Ollie and I are now back to full time training for 2009. Early next year, I will give you more details on my plans to climb Mt. Everest in 2009.
On June 9, 2008, Ollie and I entered a 5K race at the local high school. I pushed him in his stroller. We took first place! Well, it was first place in my age category, but we were proud nevertheless. I have posted a photo of us celebrating our win under "My Training Partner."
Ollie and I have entered the Nautica Malibu Triathlon. The race is on September 14, and we have signed up for the Classic course. Ollie will participate in the run and bikes courses, and I will participate in the swim, run and bike courses. I will push Ollie in a stroller in the run course and pull him in his trailer in the bike course. If you are interested in learning more about this triathlon or perhaps tracking our progress during the race, here is the website: http://www.nauticamalibutri.com/
We are off to Hawaii tomorrow with our whole family (23 of us). Later in the summer, I plan to ride my Harley Davidson Road King Classic to Banff Park in Canada. Along the way, I plan to do some fly fishing in the rivers and streams.
God's blessings to all of you and your families.
Bill |
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| 4/28/2008 |
Costa Mesa, California
April 28, 2008
Family and Friends:
I have been home now for almost one week, and I am feeling really well.
Our trip started as a trek to Everest Base Camp for my daughters--Lori and Amy--and a climb of Mt. Everest for me. This was to be a reprise of my 2007 Mt. Everest climb in which I reached the South Summit (28,750 feet), just a wee bit short of the true summit (29,035). But, this year I was brought back to the reality that my plans are not always His plans. I accept and embrace this reality. As I look back on our adventure, both before and after I fell ill on the mountain, the true purpose of the trip has come into sharp focus. We had an eventful, rewarding and totally successful trip.
After Lori and Amy rejoined me at the Yak & Yeti Hotel in Kathmandu, we made one more visit to the orphanage. We started by playing a dvd of the Wizard of Oz for the children. None of these precious souls had ever seen or heard of this movie, and they were captivated by this wonderful story of adventure, hope, courage, love, friendship and family. Their eyes were glued to the television screen, and their emotions showed with every scene. They laughed hard at the Munchkins, and their eyes opened like saucers at the appearance of the Wicked Witch of the West. We made a gift of the movie to the children. After the movie, we took the older children shopping since many of them did not receive gifts on our first visit as we were expecting only younger children. Most of these children had never been inside a retail store, so they were thrilled to be told they could each choose three outfits. They busily searched for just the right outfits and proudly modeled them for us. All of the children were so pleased with their selections. After our shopping spree, we returned to the orphanage and played games--Musical Chairs, Duck, Duck, Goose and a balloon popping contest. We all had a great time. In the evening, the children sang for us and some of the younger children performed dances. This was the sweetest part of our visits to the orphanage. We said our sad farewells and told the children that we would try to return next year. At hearing this news, they broke into applause. In talking about the orphanage, I use the word “we.” But these visits to the orphanage were planned and carried out by my daughters with the help of Puchhanga. I am so proud of them.
Over the next few days leading up to our departure, we spent a lot of time enriching the coffers of the street merchants in Thamel. I tagged along because I was enjoying this time with my daughters. Puchhanga also came with us on most of these shopping trips. In order to get to the Thamel district from our hotel, we had to cross a busy intersection. In previous crossings at this intersection, we noticed the street children hustling drivers and pedestrians for money. These children, no more than 5-7 years old, would dart in and out of busy traffic knocking on car windows seeking handouts. They would stay late into the evening, well past midnight. One little 7-year old girl, wearing a dirty pink dress, caught our attention because she was so sweet looking and yet aggressive and street smart. On one trip home from shopping in Thamel, we decided to stop and talk with this little girl and her friend, a young boy about her age. We gave them a little money and Lori and Amy took them to a clothing store near the intersection and bought each one a nice new outfit. They looked so good in their new digs and each gave us a big smile that was all the thanks we needed. As we left the store, they darted off into the darkness of the night, calling out “see you tomorrow.”
As reported in my last post, we enjoyed a marvelous dinner with Asian Trekking at Kilroy’s restaurant in Thamel, and the following day, we attended church with Puchhanga where we participated in a Communion service. Our last dinner was at our favorite restaurant--Fire and Ice. We were joined by a young missionary family affiliated with the Assembly of God church. I have such admiration for these servants of God who have devoted their lives to improving the lot of the poor and impoverished living in Nepal. There is a special place in Heaven for these compassionate human beings.
Since returning home, I have reviewed our photos and videotape of the trip. I have over 5-hours of high definition videotape of the trip as well as lots of still photos. Lori and Amy each took over 1,000 photos. The still photos and video are breathtaking in quality. I will be posting some of these photos and videotape on my website in the next few weeks.
I feel more confident than ever that I will reach the summit of Mt. Everest. This was not the year, but next year brings new hope and possibilities. I place my full trust in the Lord. When the time is right, I will realize my dream. As far as 2008, my good friend, Billy Gomez, summarized my feelings in a message he sent while I was in Kathmandu:
“mr. b
i have followed all the updates. and as always i have really enjoyed reading them. I look forward to it. I get so excited when i receive an email telling me that a report has been posted. this trip has been special, no question about it. and in all honesty, the trip seems to have been a total and complete success, bill... it appears that the importance of this trip was based on connections: you being there with your daughters, the people in need at the orphanage that you've all provided so much for, the nepalese man who was able to share a much needed helicopter ride with you to the clinic in katmandu, ... and most important, i think a deeper connection was reached within yourself. i am so happy that your health is on the mend and you were able to experience all of this. you didn't get to THEE summit... but i think you reached one that towers even higher. congratulations, my friend. Billy”
I have great plans for the summer. I will begin full time training for Everest 2009 next week. On May 17, I will be climbing Mt. Shasta, which has been on my list for over one year. I will take that long-planned motorcycle trip to Banff Park in Canada on my Harley Davidson Road King Classic. Along the way, I will do some fly fishing in the rivers and streams. And, in August, Sharon and I will be traveling to Hawaii with our 4 children and our grandchildren. So, life is good. God is good.
Thanks for your support this year. I hope you will consider providing that same support in 2009.
In the immortal words of Dorothy “there’s no place like home.”
God bless you,
Bill |
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| 4/19/2008 |
Kathmandu
April 20, 2008
Today, we begin our journey home.
The last few days have been eventful and fun. On Friday night, April 18, Ang Shering and Mohan from Asian Trekking hosted Lori, Amy, Puchhanga and I to a wonderful dinner at Kilroy's restaurant in Thamel. What a great host Asian Trekking has been during our stay in Kathmandu. On Saturday, we went to church with Puchhanaga. We saw the house Mother and house Father from the orphanage as well as many of the children we had met. The service concluded with a Communion which was very special to us. Church services in Kathmandu are held on Saturday because of the 6-day work week in Nepal. Saturday is the day of rest. The children go to school 6 days a week and have no summer vacation. However, it all works out because they have so many holidays in Nepal.
Last night, Lori, Amy, Puchhanga and I enjoyed our last dinner in Kathmandu at our favorite restaurant-Fire and Ice. We were joined by Jason and Kristi Loper and their three children. Jason and Kristi are Missionaries from the Assembly of God church. They live in Kathmandu. Bud Allen had given Jason my contact information and, fortunately, we were able to meet them before we headed home.
We had breakfast this morning with Puchhanga and Mingma and said our farewells. The people in Nepal have treated us so well.
I wish everyone at Everest Base Camp health and success on the mountain. I am already looking forward to next year. I have been collecting my thoughts about this magical journey in 2008 and will post them after I return home.
Bill |
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| 4/17/2008 |
Kathmandu
April 18, 2008
Yesterday was a rest day, which was so nice. The day before yesterday we spent most of our time with the children of the orphanage. Lori & Amy will report on that separately.
Our flights have been arranged, and we return to home-sweet-home on April 20. Yippee! We miss our families so much.
Reports from Everest Base Camp are not good. Work on the Khumbu Ice Fall has stopped. All satellite telephones and other communication equipment have been confiscated until the Chinese have taken the torch to the summit on the North side. Who knows when that will occur? This means that all those folks parked at Base Camp have no way to communicate home. I would absolutely hate that. I understand that the teams are only allowed to use walkie-talkie radios to communicate with each other at Base Camp. They are required to give their radio frequencies to the liaison officers so their chatter can be monitored. They are absolutely forbidden to mention "Tibet," "Free Tibet" or to say anything derogatory about the Chinese. If anyone wants to send a message to the outside world, they must send a sherpa down the mountain below Gorak Shep. I have been told that all bags going up to Base Camp from Gorak Shep are being searched for sat phones and other communication equipment.
None of this makes any sense to me. What are the Chinese afraid of? We had heard that these sort of restrictions might be imposed, but I never really believed it would happen. How could they enforce such restrictions? Are they going to search every bag going up the mountain?? I guess so.
I feel so blessed to live in a free, great and good country. Sometimes we take our precious liberties for granted. Not any more. God bless America.
I feel super-duper. We're having a great time. God is good!
Bill |
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| 4/17/2008 |
Kathmandu
10 days later...
We are comfortably back in the Yak & Yeti, but this is our account on the mountain...
We boarded our propeller plane with our luggage tags that read "I Was Never Meant To Fly Coach!" that were given to us by a close friend before we left. We zipped down the runway, shared by monkeys and airplanes, and had a successful take-off. The pilot and co-pilot did not high five each other as they did last year when our Dad took the same flight! The flight was quite enjoyable. We flew low enough to get a great view of the beautiful mountain ranges. What we had feared most about this flight was the uphill landing on an airstrip 1/2 the size of Pacific Coast Highway! We arrived safely and we began our first trek, which we were told was an 'easy trek," to Phakding! In comparison to the rest of our trip, it was not as gruelsome. However, it was a complete shock to our systems! The path was a mixture of equal parts; rock and yak dung! It rained on us the entire trek! It was so thrilling to actually be on the mountain and see the people, the animals, and the amazing scenery first hand! We snapped photos the entire way. We especially loved crossing the suspension bridges and seeing the waterfalls and raging river, also known as "The Milk River" for its white/teal color. When we were shown to our rooms in Phakding we were soaking wet and freezing. Before entering, we took off our shoes and would not let anyone enter with their shoes on. If we had to, we would crawl through the door on our knees, with our feet and hands in the air! We immediately changed into dry clothes and jumped into our sleeping bags and never wanted to come out. Dad told us to be sure to put all of our electronics in our sleeping bags ( IPODS, cameras, cell phones, sat phones) so that they wouldn't get ruined from the freezing cold weather. That is when all of the door knocking began! We looked at each other like, "Who's going to get it?" So we took turns hopping to the door in our sleeping bags, hoping we weren't crushing our electronics on the way! We finally relented and came out to the dining room. for soup and tea. That would be our first of 10,000 cups of tea on this journey. The rest of the team must have thought we were crazy. We followed a strict hygiene regimen of cleaning our hands with baby wipes followed by Purell hand sanitizer. Little did we know today was an "easy" day and we slept well in our sleeping bags!
Our climb from Phakding to Namche Bazaar kicked our butts! We had flashbacks of the Mt. Whitney switchbacks! It was best to just not look up. The elevation gain was 3,000 feet! The scenery along the way was stunning. It almost looked fake. Namche Bazaar is a busy, cute and colorful village located on a steep hill. We planned for a rest day there and enjoyed shopping, eating and using the internet at the cyber cafe'. Whenever we pulled out a wad of cash to pay for something, we had to study each bill to make sure we paid the correct amount. The shop owners stared at us like, "Dumb Americans!" So we started calling each other "Dumb American!" Little did we know our stay in Namche would be longer than expected. We knew our Dad was ill when he only ate 2 small pieces of pizza and said he was full. As we mentioned in an earlier report, he got the help he needed, and while he laid in bed we officially became locals! Up and down the village we ventured for 2 1/2 days becoming more familiar with the locals and them with us. They would call us out by our first names as we walked by their "shops." We took tons of pictures and handed out candies (Jolly Ranchers) to the kids and even made friends with 2 cows! Or were they caks (1/2 cow, 1/2 yak)??? We even hand fed them Jolly Ranchers! You could tell they loved it by their slobber and drool. Our Dad looked a little better the next day so we decided to move on to Tengboche. The hike was great for us. We had a lot of energy, listened to our music and we had our first view of the great Mt. Everest!!! That was AWESOME! What a thrill it was to finally see our goal, the tallest mountain in the world! Puchhanga took photos of the 3 of us. WE finally got to see in person Dad's dream! When we arrived in Tengboche, they showed us to the "best" lodge in the village, which was only one out of two! It was more than DISGUSTING! We stayed in a green glowing tube! To enter, you walk down about 3 steps and through a doorway similar to Alice in Wonderland. It stunk so bad! We couldn't wait to go to sleep, wake up and LEAVE! This trip was beginning to resemble an episode of "The Simple Life."
Even though our Dad wasn't completely himself yet, we pushed on to Pheriche, knowing that there was a good medical clinic where we could have him checked out. The accommodations were better than the tube. Anything is better than the tube. We took scalding hot showers. You had to let the staff know 45 minutes in advance so they could boil the water. The water came out of a tiny spout the size of a dime. To release the flow of water, you pull out the extra large toothpick, and when you are finished you put it back in. Amy got the first shower only to get scalded by the extra boiling hot water, and you could hear her saying, "Ouch, Ouch, Shoot, Oww!!!" The dining room facility was very nice. There were many people from all over the world relaxing, reading books, meeting one another and all of the tables were lit by candle light. When it got dark, everyone used their head lamps to read. Dad fell asleep in the dining room and appeared more and more sick. We thought we would sleep in the next morning then visit the doctor. Surprisingly, we all awoke extra early. When Dad emerged from his room, he said he was going to the clinic, which was unlike him. He knew he was very bad, so the 3 of us rushed over together. The clinic is open 24 hours for emergencies. We banged on the door and woke up the doctor. The doctor checked his oxygen Sat. level and his lungs. His oxygen Sat. level was at 40 and his lungs were full of fluid. He diagnosed him with pulmonary edema. He immediately hooked him up to oxygen which brought his oxygen level up to 70. He gave us our options, but highly recommended we get him on a rescue chopper down to Kathmandu. We were so sad to see our Dad in this condition. In order to get down to Kathmandu to be with him we would have to start our trek right away. So there we go with our sherpas down the mountain listening for the chopper on its way to pick up our Dad. We were so excited when we saw it fly by and it seemed only a few minutes later it was on its way down with our Dad. We waved like crazy from the side of the mountain, while Puchhanga took photos.
We took only two days to get down the mountain...we were on a mission to meet up with Dad. Our first day we trekked to Namche Bazaar (where we are now locals!) We were so tired and our legs and knees were so sore. One enjoyable memory on this first day was finding a girlfriend for our Puchhanga! We asked him on one of our breaks if he had a girlfriend at home and he said " No, I'm still praying." The young female server was cute so we asked him about her and told him we thought she was cute. He said, " I know." We told him to ask her out and he said, " She's too far." We asked her if she ever goes to Kathmandu to which she replies to Puchhanga, " No work." He told her in Nepalese that he could get her a job. They exchanged phone numbers and had their picture taken together by both our camera and his camera! We wiped our hands like job well done, and continued our trek!
The next morning it was the same old thing, back down the mountain...another long day to get to Lukla where we can fly out to Kathmandu. We went slow because we were so tired. Puchhanga wanted to have his eyes on both of us so he put Lori in the lead position and Amy 2nd. Lori used her trekking poles to navigate every step, while Amy followed behind like the scarecrow in "The Wizard of Oz!" It was like she had no bones in her body and Puchhanga was there to catch her fall! It began rain, then hail, then got dark... "Lions and Tigers and Bears Oh My!" Before resorting to digging through our backpacks for our headlamps, Lori was now using her trekking poles a guiding stick for the visually impaired on the side of a very steep mountain. At best she was rearranging the Yak poop on the trail! We finally made it and when we arrived our sweet porters were waiting for us with BIG smiles as usual with our heavy bags. They showed us to our room which involved going down through a dungeon first. We got the first flight out of Lukla in the morning...6:30 AM. The take off involved shooting down the steep runway and taking off over the side of a cliff. We didn't care at that point...just get us to Kathmandu!
When we arrived back to the hotel we immediately wanted to see our Dad. We went to his room and knocked, but no answer. We began to worry and imagine the worst, so we started kicking on his door. Finally we saw a housekeeper and asked her to let us in "our room." He wasn't there. We found him in the hotel business center on the computer and looked like himself again! What a relief. Now we just had to make sure he didn't have any crazy ideas of going back up. Although he was considering it, the doctor in Kathmandu strongly recommended that he not. So we will all be coming home together!
Before we come home, we promised the kids at the orphanage that we would be back. That will be in our next report...
Amy and Lori |
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| 4/14/2008 |
April 14, 2008
Kathmandu
My daughters are back with me at the Yak & Yeti, and are in fine fettle. Puchhanga and Mingma are fine too. A huge weight of concern has been lifted from my shoulders, and I thank God for their safe return.
Lori and Amy had me doubled over in laughter with their report about the trek down the mountain. But, I almost cried when they told me that they waved at the helicopter ferrying me to Kathmandu as it passed over them on the trail. I was in the comfort of the Clinic less than 1 hour later, and they still had 2 very hard days of trekking just to get back to Lukla. Nevertheless, they will have many happy stories to recount when they get home. At the top of the list is the fact they kicked my butt on the mountain. My family will bring this up at every future gathering until I depart this good earth.
Here is a more detailed account of what happened to me. On the flight to Bangkok or Kathmandu, I picked up a bug that became a passenger within a passenger and traveled with me to Lukla. At Lukla, the incubation period expired, the eggs hatched and a billion hungry germs were released into my system, scurrying to every nook, cranny and corner of my body. They finally brought me down in Namche Bazaar, and I was flat on my back for two full days and nights. I can’t remember ever being so sick. I could not even lift myself up in my bed. Two wonderful doctors visited me, one who prescribed herbal medicine and another who prescribed traditional western medicine for viral infection and flu. On the third day, I felt a little better, and we resumed our trek to Everest Base Camp. In retrospect, this was a mistake, since I was not fully recovered and was suffering from fatigue, weakness and severe loss of appetite. At this point, with the virus brought under control, the second half of the tag team--pulmonary edema--took over, causing my lungs to fill with fluid. This fresh attack pulled me under when we arrived in Pheriche two days later.
After a restless night, I woke to the sound of my lungs gurgling with every breath. I was barely able to lift myself out of bed, pull my boots on and struggle into the dining room where I picked up my daughters who accompanied me to the Nepal Himalayan Rescue Association medical clinic just a few steps up the trail. The doctor came out and put my index finger in a pulsometer that measures the oxygen saturation (“SAT”) level in the blood. After seeing my SAT level, he let out an audible gasp and said “what’s this?” The reading was 40. Readings in the high 90’s are normal and anything below 70 in the mountains is dangerous. By way of comparison, Amy’s SAT reading in Pheriche was 93. (How embarrassing is that?) He then checked my lungs and confirmed that I had pulmonary edema and had to go down quickly. He said that, if I was in the states, they would have me hooked up to a respirator which he did not have in his Clinic. Asian Trekking called for the helicopter, and my daughters quickly organized all my gear and their gear for the trip down the mountain. My teammates were wonderful and supportive, especially my good friend David Liano from Mexico. David kept reminding me that this was the right call and that the mountains are always secondary. He gave me an old Tibetan coin and made me promise to bring it with me next year when we return to Mt. Everest.
The doctor in Pheriche told us that one of his patients is a young porter who is critically ill with a heart condition. The doctor did not have the proper equipment to treat him, the porter could not travel down the mountain by himself and he couldn’t afford to pay for a helicopter evacuation. So the doctor asked us if his patient could share the two-person back seat with me for the trip to Kathmandu so he could be admitted to a hospital and receive proper medical attention. Of course, we agreed, and the porter and I traveled down the mountain together. As I was moving up the mountain in the previous days, feeling sicker and sicker, I kept asking myself, why is this happening to me now. I rarely get sick, and I have never had any form of serious altitude problems in the mountains. Maybe I now have my answer.
The doctors and support staff at the Nepal International Clinic in Kathmandu were so kind and nurturing. Dr. Govind Pokhrel gave me a full check-up, including a lung test, an EKG, blood work, SAT tests and blood pressure testing. He pronounced me healthy. Because there was still some crackling in my lungs, he suggested that I stay overnight at the Clinic hooked up to oxygen. So, that’s what I did. A young nurse came in to take a SAT reading. When I asked her how it looked, she said the reading was 92. I proudly announced “wow, that’s a great reading, so I’m okay.” She responded “Yes, Sir (meaning “dummy”), you are on a 6 litre flow of oxygen directly into your lungs through your nose.” She razzed me about that incident until she left at the end of the day.
While I was in my clinic bed, Jeff Giger (my wonderful son-in-law), called. He had searched the net to find a way to locate me, and one of the names hit. I reassured him that I was fine. He gave the number to Sharon who called, and we had a heart-warming chat. Sharon told me that she heard from my climbing friend, Bud Allen, that Lori and Amy safely reached Namche Bazaar from Pheriche and would be trekking down to Lukla the following day. Bud heard the news from Puchhanga who sent an e-mail to Bud from Namche. Thanks to our dear friends Bud and Puchhanga.
My care-taker at the Clinic, who stayed with me the entire time and cooked all my meals, was Tseri Sherpa. What a loving and gentle person. He heard about our trip to the orphanage. He held his hands to his face in a prayer position and said, with the greatest sincerity, “thank you.”
I have nothing but good things to say about Asian Trekking. A helicopter evacuation is usually a long process filled with bureaucratic red tape and lots of delay. This is especially so during the holiday and election seasons, both of which converged on April 12. I arrived at the Clinic in Pheriche in the morning and the helicopter picked me up at 11 am, an impressive and unprecedented accomplishment. Asian Trekking had 2 representatives pick me up at the airport, and they took me right to the Clinic. Mohan and Sanjay from Asian Trekking stopped by to see me in the morning and had a driver pick me up and take me to the hotel when the doctor discharged me later in the day.
A brief word about the political situation in Nepal. On April 11, there was a national Constituent Assembly Election in Nepal to elect representatives to draft a new Constitution establishing a federal democratic republic. The election process was quite vigorous and heated, drawing international attention and hundreds of election observers from all over the world. This included former President Jimmy Carter, who stayed at the Yak & Yeti. One of the reasons for all the heat and interest was that the Maoists Rebels laid down their guns and participated in the electoral process. In a stunning turn of events, the Maoists scored victories by wide margins in many of the Constituent elections. It appears that they could now establish themselves as the largest party in the 601-member Assembly. Some attribute their victory to a desire for peace and economic prosperity, which the Nepali Congress apparently could not deliver. Other say threats and fear played a crucial role in the upset victories. One cab driver told me that the Nepalese people are, by nature, peace-loving, and he thinks many of them silently voted for the Maoists so as to keep them from returning to the jungle where they would resume their guerrilla warfare. Whatever the reason, pressure will undoubtedly be brought on Washington to remove the Maoists from its international terror list.
I have grown to love the people of Nepal. You never see a frown on a face. The people are genuinely kind, sincere and respectful, and they seem to love all foreigners, including Americans. Most importantly they are peaceful and peace-loving. Yesterday morning in the hotel, a little Nepalese girl toddled over to me as I was seated on a couch waiting for my room to be prepared. She crawled up beside me, took the pencil out of my hand and started to scribble on a piece of paper I had been writing on. She was so cute.
We plan to visit the orphanage at least one more time. Lori and Amy want to take more gifts to the older children who we were not expecting to see on our first visit. I want to take more video footage. We also want to find out what other supplies they might need that we can bring back on future trips. We will share this information with you in case you are interested in helping. Maybe we will make this an annual pilgrimage.
My plan was to return to the mountains on April 16 when another Asian Trekking group leaves to climb Mt. Everest. But, I had one last appointment at the Clinic, and wanted to see what the doctor had to say. He said I am healthy, but still in the recovery stage. He strongly recommended against going up again so soon. If I don’t allow my body sufficient time to fully recover before I go back up, there is a serious risk that I will have the same problem. He wanted me to rest in Kathmandu for at least 7 days. But, waiting 7 days would not allow me sufficient time to make a serious run at the summit. So, I’m coming home with my daughters.
One good consequence of making this decision is that Asian Trekking can secure a refund of $10,000 for my permit fee. After today, no refund can be secured. Asian Trekking will also hold all my oxygen bottles until next year.
Honestly, having my daughters back with me has jolted me back to reality and made me realize what is really important. I don’t really care that much about the mountain right now. I will come back next year with Bud and David, and my daughters promised to make every effort to return with me. I hope my other 2 children--Lisa and Danny--will try to come too.
This trip has been a huge success. Lori, Amy and I have had the best time, and Lori and Amy have proven their power and mettle in so many ways. The three of us have created memories that will last forever.
Lori and Amy plan to post their own report after receiving a decent night of sleep in a real bed. We will keep you advised as to our plans for the return home.
Thanks so much for your prayers, love and support.
Bill |
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| 4/13/2008 |
April 13, 2008
Kathmandu
Happy New Year.
Yes, I am in Kathmandu, and it is the first day of the New Year in Nepal. As you must know by now, I contracted pulmonary edema in Pheriche and had to be airlifted off the mountain by helicopter to Kathmandu. This all started with the virus that attacked me in Namche Bazaar. I feel great right now and am back at the Yak & Yeti.
I plan to file a full report tomorrow, but now I am concentrating totally on the safe return of my daughters, who are trekking today from Namche to Lukla. I expect to see them later tonight or tomorrow. I am supremely confident of their safe return as they have the two best sherpas in Nepal by their side. They are also very strong and feeling quite well. Still, the separation makes my heart ache. How ironic: all my contingency plans were designed to insure their safe return if something happened to them on the trek to and from Everest Base Camp. Here I sit in the Yak & Yeti after a chopper ride down the mountain while they trek down the mountain to catch up with me.
Thanks to Jeff Giger (my son-in-law) for tracking me down at the Clinic in Kathmandu; Sharon, for her words of love and support; and Bud Allen for calling Sharon to let her know my daughters safely arrived in Namche Bazaar last evening. Thanks also to all of you for your prayers.
I may be down right now , but don't count me out for this year. More on that tomorrow.
Bill |
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| 4/12/2008 |
April 12, 2008
Costa Mesa, CA
After some phone calls and e mails I have learned that Bill is resting, on oxygen, at a clinic in Kathmandu. I talked with him this morning after Jeff Giger, my son in law, researched on the internet and was able to find him. Thank you Jeff! Bill sounded good, much better than when I talked with him in Tengboche.
He immediately began feeling better when he was taken to a lower altitude. They want him to stay another 24 hours on oxygen.
The girls have made it down to Namche Bazaar and are fine. (Thanks to Bud Allen for finding this out for me.)
I will let them fill you in on details. I want to thank everyone for your prayers and concern.
God is good!
Sharon |
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| 4/11/2008 |
April 11, 2008
8 PM
Costa Mesa, CA
I just got a phone call from Amy. They are in Pheriche. Bill has pulmonary edema and they are waiting for a helicopter to take him to a hospital in Kathmandu. He is now at the hospital in Pheriche. His oxygen sat level was at 40.
He woke up this morning in Pheriche and told the girls that he was taking himself to the hospital. They knew he was really sick when he said that. Amy and Lori will start walking after Bill is picked up. She said it takes an hour and a half for the helicopter to get there.
I wanted to talk more with Amy, but the phone went dead.
We thank you for your prayers.
Sharon and Family |
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| 4/10/2008 |
Tengboche
April 11, 2008
I think I have fought off the virus and I am now dealing with the after-effects--some congestion, a cough, fatigue and loss of appetite. But, every day I feel better. This must be the year of the bug in the Khumbu region. My personal sherpa and a porter are sick, so I gave them some of my medicine. One of the other Asian Trekking climbers is also sick and is laid up in Pangboche. Glad it is all happening here and not at Base Camp.
Lori and Amy are fine and are acting as the official expedition nurses. Lori follows me around everywhere I go handing me baby wipes to keep my hands clean.
We trekked from Namche (11,000) to Tengboche (12,500) yesterday, an elevation gain of about 1,500 feet. The scenery is stunning in its beauty. We all got our first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. That was so special. The experience of being in the Himalayan mountain range can only be described as mystical. Lori and Amy really enjoyed the trek yesterday, their favorite part of the trek so far. I enjoyed it too, of course, but I had to labor on the steep sections because of my lack of energy. Even so, I enjoyed it so much, and it is so special to be here with my daughters.
Lori and Amy are taking lots of photos, which is great because it frees me up to use my high definition video camera.
Tengboche is a beautiful village at the top of the mountain. There is a Buddhist Monastery here and a few shops and stores to pick up souvenirs. Our accommodations last night were pretty nasty, and Lori and Amy will have a few funny stories to share when they get home. Unfortunately, I can't repeat them in this report.
Today, we head to Pheriche where we will catch up with the rest of the team. Pheriche is one of my favorite villages. We may even take a rest day at Pheriche.
Bill |
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| 4/9/2008 |
April 9, 2008
Namche Bazaar
Wow, these past two days have been memorable.
We trekked from Phakding (8,000 feet) to Namche Bazaar (11,000 feet) on April 7, a huge push involving an elevation gain of 3,000 feet. Lori and Amy did absolutely GREAT. They were right behind me the whole way. It took us about 6-1/2 hours. Namche is such a fun village tucked into the side of the mountain. (If you want to see pictures of some of the places I will mention, check out my photos on my website from my Everest trip last year). There are lots of markets, hotels, restaurants and even an internet cafe, which is where I am as I type this report. We had a nice dinner at my favorite pizza house and then retired to our "hotel." That's where the trouble started.
Staying healthy is a cardinal rule of high altitude mountaineering. I broke that rule big time in Namche. I started feeling the onset of a cold during my last night in Kathmandu. Then we flew to Lukla and started our trek to Phakding in the rain. When I woke up the following morning (April 7) in Phakding, my throat felt scratchy. We trekked to Namche and slept at our hotel on April 7. When I woke up in the morning on April 8, I was as sick as I have ever been, and I rarely get sick. I had a fever, sore throat, achy joints, heavy upper respiratory infection and congestion and total loss of appetite. I saw 2 doctors that day-one from Nepal and one from northern California. The doctor from Nepal prescribed herbal medicine that was a combination of a dusty substance and little round pills that look like coco-puffs. I also wanted to see a doctor that practices western medicine so my nurses (Lori and Amy) located a wonderful doctor from northern California (Christina) who was staying on our floor of the hotel. She gave me some pills (I presume anti-antibiotics) and advice (e.g., drink liquids and take Vitamin C "Airborn"). I was in my bed all day April 8. It was difficult for me to even sit up in bed. April 9 (today), I woke up feeling a little better, but, even so, I only left my room twice--once to take a shower and once to type this message at the internet cafe. Tonight, I feel quite a bit better, but who knows what tomorrow will bring. One of my big concerns is that I have not been eating well and my energy level is way down. Tomorrow, we trek to Tengboche or Pangboche depending on how I feel.
I know I will recover just fine, and it is good that I contracted this early in the trek and at a relatively low elevation. I think I picked up the bug on the flight to Bangkok since the seat next to me was blocked because it was "dirty." I bet the person sitting there on the previous flight was sick and threw up.
Lori and Amy have been so great to me through this ordeal. They are also doing really well, with no signs of excess fatigue or altitude sickness. I love them so much.
Mingma and Puchhanga have been wonderful companions and helpers. Amy said that traveling with Mingma is like having a personal nanny since he hovers over Lori and Amy all the way. If they reach for something in their backpack, Mingma is right there pulling it out for them. If they travel too close to the edge of the trail on steep sections, Mingma gets between them and the edge of the trail. I appreciate that so much. Puchhanga caught up with us on the trek to Namche Bazaar. What a total blessing he has been to our trip. Lori and Amy say that they feel like they have a personal bodyguard with them at all times. He goes with them on all their shopping trips and basically waits in the dining area for them to come out of our hotel. This was such a comfort to me as I lay helpless in my sick bed for two days.
I will close this report with a humorous incident so that the report does not sound too much like "gloom and doom" On the trek from Lukla to Phakding, we stopped in a little tea house to get out of the rain. Amy had to go to the bathroom and asked where it was located. I pointed to the bathroom door and she went in. She came right out saying there is no toilet in the room, just a hole in the floor. I said the hole in the floor is the toilet. She said how do you go? I said you squat and go. She was appalled. She made me stand at the door holding the door open and looking the other way while she went because she did not want be alone in a dark room. Lori went in after Amy, and we could hear her laughing from the other room.
God bless all of you,
Bill |
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| 4/9/2008 |
Kathmandu
April 7
Hi it's Lori and Amy!
There is so much to say, we don't know where to begin. We arrived in Kathmandu and went straight to our hotel, The Yak and Yeti. It was very nice. The grounds were nicely manicured and our room had a pretty garden view. Dad walked us into Thamel, a bustling town in Kathmandu. It was exactly how Dad described it last year...dogs, cars, rickshaws, motorbikes, cows, pedestrians, etc. all sharing the roads. The streets are lined with one shop after another selling basically the same products, just competing with each other in price. We went to a great pizza place for dinner called, Fire and Ice. We had wonderful pizza for dinner and some great ice cream for dessert. Fire & Ice is a town favorite for trekkers and climbers from all over the world. After dinner we walked back to the hotel in the dark! This was the scariest part of our trip so far. Imagine the streets mentioned earlier, but now imagine them in the pitch black! We had a big day ahead of us, so we when we got back to the hotel we went to bed.
The next morning we met our personal sherpa/nanny/bodyguard/personal shopper/currency converter/interpreter/tour guide/spiritual leader and bag handler! He's like that doll you can buy at Ace Hardware, "Mr. Wonderful!" His name is Puchhanga. He is over 6 feet tall, slender build, and giant warm smile! He is one of very few Christians in Nepal. He is very involved in his church and does a lot of missionary work. We discussed our plan to visit the orphanage and our trek from base camp to Kathmandu with him. Our plan for the day was to first visit Swambhu Nath Temple ( AKA "The Monkey Temple" ), the Pashupati Hindhu Temple and then visit the orphanage. We invited Puchhanga to spend the day with us, which made our day so much more enjoyable. He had a wealth of information to share and he was very protective. We knew we were in good hands. With no disrespect to the Swambhu Nath Temple itself, our favorite part was hand feeding bananas to the monkeys! We had to walk up nearly 1,000 steps to get to the temple and the monkeys followed closely behind! Our next stop, the Hindhu Temple, which is also where the Hindhus hold their cremation ceremonies. That's when we knew for sure we weren't in Kansas anymore! The smoke and ash was suffocating and the smell was horrid. Puchhanga gave us the some historical information about the Hindhus, in particular the ones called Sadhus. These are the Hindhus who have left their families, jobs, homes, and all luxuries in life to seek spiritual enlightenment. Right before our eyes we saw four Sadhus. They sat in very still poses with their legs twisted like pretzels. They were covered in white powder, their hair was very matted, no clothes, just a metal trinket covering their privates, somehow rigged by a thin string! They will let you take a picture with them for a fee. That must be how they support their cigarette habit and expensive taste in watches! Speaking of very little luxuries in life, it was time to visit the orphanage.
Visiting the orphanage was worth the trip all on it's own! They had been expecting us all day, prepared a special bread and walked 30 minutes to and from the community showers to get cleaned up for us. Their were 20 boys and girls, ages 4-23 and a house mother and father. The kids were extremely polite, cheerful, smart and amazing in every way. They each stood up one at a time and introduced themselves and told us what grade they were in. We felt like Santa Claus for the day! We opened our bags and started handing out clothing, games, shoes, Bibles, study guides, crafts, medicine, tooth brushes, tooth paste and balloons. They were all dancing around, holding up the clothes to themselves and each other, trying on shoes, reading through their books and tossing balloons! It was a great day for them, but an even better day for us! It seemed everyone naturally formed groups... some doing crafts, some playing games, some trying on clothes, some folding clothes and refolding and refolding again! Thanks to all of our support at home, this was one of the most rewarding days of our lives! Before we left they sang us a worship song in Nepalese and English. It was the most precious site! Our taxi arrived and we gave each one a big hug before we left. When we got back to The Yak and Yeti we were exhausted both physically and mentally. We layed in our beds pondering the day in silence.
Tomorrow it's off to Lukla!
More to come soon...
Lori and Amy |
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| 4/8/2008 |
April 8, 2008
Costa Mesa, CA
We waited all day yesterday for word that Amy and Lori had made the hard trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar. Amy wrote this morning and didn't mention the trek, but they are in Namche and Bill is quite sick. He has a sore throat, aches, bad congestion, no appetite, etc. The girls found a doctor from another team who agreed to see him. She gave him some of her own antibiotics. Amy and Lori traded Diet Coke and Cranberry juice for her services. They won't be trekking today, which was actually part of their schedule.
Hopefully I will hear from them tonight.
Sharon Burke |
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| 4/6/2008 |
Audio post from Bill:
April 6, 2008 Audio Report |
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| 4/5/2008 |
April 5, 2008
Kathmandu, Nepal
Namaste from Kathmandu.
There has been much talk and worry about the economy in Kathmandu because of the recent political turmoil in the region. All that was erased when our plane touched down at the Kathmandu Airport. The emergence of Lori and Amy on the scene was a shot in the arm for the local merchants in Thamel that will undoubtedly carry them through the season.
Kathmandu has not changed a bit from last year. The traffic of machines and people on the streets of Thamel can only be described as chaotic. How motorists, motorcyclists, bicyclists, rickshaw drivers, pedestrians and animals survive is truly a Wonder of the World. When the narrow streets get too crowded, the motorcyclists just drive on the sidewalks, honking at pedestrians that get in their way. Everyone, I mean everyone, drives with their horns.
I love walking around and taking it all in. It was especially fun showing my daughters around. They love the shopping. Watching them ply their trade and negotiate with the merchants is a real treat as well as a study in contrasts. Lori takes the hard-nosed approach. Her favorite line is "No, that's way too much." (Shouting across the room at Amy) "Amy, are you done? I am ready to go." The tactic almost always works. Amy's approach is more soft and subtle. Her system works because she keeps the merchants constantly off balance, always thinking that, if they lower the price just another 100 rupees, they can cinch the deal. She is also a sophisticated negotiator. For example, all the merchants walk around with an electronic calculator in their hand, constantly running figures to show you how much you are saving. The first thing Amy did was to purchase her own calculator so as to level the playing field. It is so much fun watching Amy and the merchants duel with each other, using their calculators as weapons of choice.
A funny thing happened at one of the clothing stores. Lori couldn't reach a deal with the merchant and she noticed a store across the street that sells the same product. She told the merchant that she would just walk across the street and buy the product from a merchant that would meet her price. He replied, "okay, I'll be right over. I own that store too." When another merchant was asked the price of a particular product, he said "whatever you want to pay. No matter what price I quote, you will say it is too high."
We met with the owner of Asian Trekking and their staff and they seem like really nice people. I also met my personal sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, and I really like him. He reminds me of the famous Yankee relief pitcher, Mariano Rivera. Steely-eyed, young, strong, competent and somewhat shy. He has summited Mt. Everest 5 times. In an amazing coincidence, David Liano knows Mingma. When David summited Everest in 2005 with Alpine Ascents, Mingma was one of the sherpas hired by Alpine Ascents. David says he is super strong and I am lucky to have him as my personal sherpa.
We had breakfast this morning with the personal sherpa that will accompany us on the trek. His name is Puchhanga. We really like him. He is a Christian and speaks very good English. Lanny Anderson, who is trekking to Base Camp this year, joined us because he too is a Christian. Yesterday, poor Lanny was bending over to tie his shoe and a dog that was laying on the sidewalk bit him on the finger. He went to the hospital and now has to have the painful series of rabies shots. He still plans to trek to Base Camp and will get some of his shots along the way. I am so happy and comforted to know that Puchhanga will be traveling with Lori and Amy when I am not with them.
After breakfast, Puchhanga, Lori, Amy, Lanny and I visited some of the famous sites of Kathmandu. We went to the Swambhu Nath Temple (the "Monkey Temple"), site of the largest sitting Buddha in Nepal, the Boudhanath Temple, site of the largest Buddhist Stupa in Nepal, and the Pashupati Hindu Temple, where cremations take place. Lori was not particularly fond of the smoke and ash from the cremations. When we returned to the hotel, she immediately took a shower. She said that she has never felt so dirty. We had such a great time together, and it was nice to have Buchanan as our wonderful, informative and accommodating tour guide.
Our last event of the day was a trip to the Lhomi Kids Care Home, which is an orphanage. Puchhanga organized the visit. Lori and Amy brought several duffle bags full of gifts for the children. Many of the gifts were donated by friends, neighbors and churches in Newport Beach. The visit can only be described as once-in-a-lifetime and sacred in nature. I will let Lori and Amy fill in the details in a later post. I am so proud of them.
At 6 am tomorrow morning, we fly to Lukla to begin our 35-mile trek to Base Camp. That's when the work and adventure really begins. I told Lori and Amy to enjoy their last good meal and shower for a long time.
God bless all of you.
Bill Burke |
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| 4/4/2008 |
Kathmandu April 4, 2008
Hi it's Amy and Lori!
We had a great flight from LA to Bangkok. We were completely lounged, full body reclined in our seats for 17 hours. After a 12 hour sleep, better than at home, we woke up and asked for a second cup of coffee. We were surprised to hear the flight attendant reply, "Ridiculous!" Little did she know we really wanted a Vente - skinny, caramel, double cap, no foam, extra hot macchiato! We laughed the rest of the flight. From the time we exited the airplane, we were shocked by the extreme smells. It was very hot and humid and the air was full of pollution. We needed two cabs to get to the hotel. Our Dad went in one and we went in the other. We played "Name That Artist" with the cab driver. We would play a song for him and he would guess the artist. He guessed Madonna right but needed extra clues for Michael Jackson. The clue that gave it away was, "He was black and is now kind of white!" Surprisingly, he had never heard of Britney Spears - imagine that! It was fun seeing him laugh a lot! He told us about all of the beautiful places in Bangkok to visit. Unfortunately, our two day visit didn't allow us to explore the country outside of Bangkok.
What a cultural shock! Our hotel was nice, located amongst very run down, poor structures and locals as well as couture shopping. We found that to be very odd. There were NO deals in these stores! In fact, the prices were at least double or triple the amount you would pay in the US. We found it more fun bargaining with the locals on the street and in make shift tents called "shopping malls." We found that we could outfit an entire village by shopping in these outdoor bazaars. It was interesting to see the origin of so many goods that are imported and sold in America.
The biggest tourist attraction here is The Grand Palace. In order to get in we had to buy a shirt to cover our arms and rent a long skirt to cover our legs. What a sight to see! We took lots of pictures! The temple with The Reclining Buddha was especially interesting. He was about four stories high and was shimmering gold. The details in the artistry were spectacular. The palace lit up in the evening and we were able to appreciate its beauty at night while on a dinner cruise. The music was a true "karaoke band." haha! We had so much fun. We met some nice people and danced to some FUN music!!! To end the night, we had to visit the night bazaar. We thought Dad could use a second pair of jeans. So we were excited to buy him a nice new pair. They even do alterations as you wait! Dad was sleeping on a chair in the bustling street. When we got back to the hotel we had him try them on. We were so excited to see him in some new nicely fitting jeans. He came out of the bathroom saying, "There is NO way I will wear these. They are way too tight. Thanks for the thought. No way!" We must admit. They were pretty designer, straight legged and very TIGHT! We have laughed so much on this trip!
Our trip to the airport in our hot pink cab was quite a trip! Again, our Dad was in a separate cab. Lori was the lucky one who got to sit in the front seat and Amy got to sit in the back buried by all of the luggage. Lori didn't realize her strength from all of her training, so when she closed her door the entire car shook. Our driver instinctively grabbed his ear and stared at her with some evil eyes. She apologized profusely but he was not letting this one go. She decided to further her concern by asking if his ear was ok, and he finally let it go. Only to start demanding money for a toll fee that never existed. Next came his crazy body movements. He would lean into Lori waving his hands in her face and then lean back towards his window. Then, he would make these weird finger signs and then strike a pose. This all went on while he was driving. We finally became aware that he was not playing around when he started pretending to drink out of an imaginary cup. Yikes! All the while we were whizzing by trucks, cars, motorbikes, bicycles and scooters with children hanging on for their dear life. The most interesting automobile "get up" was a pick-up truck with a rigged hammock in the back with a little boy reclined in it. We can only imagine the kids must fight over that "seat." Thank God we made it to the airport.
Upon checking our bags, we had hoped not to have to pay too much extra, considering they were filled with clothing, toys, etc. for the children of Nepal. The ticket agent asked us for $1000.00 American dollars. We of course made a big stink and pled with them that this was for a good cause and they were over charging us. After negotiating with the agent and the supervisor, we got it down to $600.00. Then we personally made sure each bag was sent through.
We made it to Kathmandu and so did our bags! Today is our first official day in Kathmandu and we can't wait to get out and explore!
Lori & Amy |
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| 4/3/2008 |
April 3, 2008
Kathmandu, Nepal
We just arrived at the Yak & Yeti hotel in Kathmandu. This appears to be a very nice hotel. More on that in a later post. So far, our trip has been fantastic.
The flight from Los Angeles to Bangkok, Thailand was easy and uneventful. Thai Air upgraded us to business class, which helped a lot. We arrived on April 1 at 9:30 am and were in the Arnoma Hotel by 11 am. After getting settled, we went shopping--surprise, surprise. Actually Lori & Amy went shopping, and I tagged along. They had a great time and picked up a lot of good stuff (so they say). We first shopped at a large mall near the hotel and then ventured out of town to a popular indoor and outdoor shopping mall. I decided to help Lori and Amy by making a financial contribution to their shopping spree. Lori refused to accept the donation, saying I had already done enough. Amy took the money out of my hand almost before I had a chance to open my mouth. The next day, as Lori’s finances dwindled, she was more accepting of my offer.
We slept well and started the day on April 2 around 11 am. That’s when I had my first panic attack. We agreed to meet at the Starbucks café next to the hotel at 11:15 am as Lori & Amy needed to pick up a “couple of things” at the mall near the hotel. I was there on time. No Lori or Amy. At 11:30 am, they were still not there, so I went back to the hotel. No Lori or Amy. I went back to Starbucks and waited until 11:45. Still no Lori or Amy. I repeat the process--back to the hotel--back to Starbucks--and no sign of the girls. Now it’s noon, and I am starting to get really concerned. I hurry 4 blocks to another Starbucks, thinking we had a mix-up in signals as to where to meet. They are not there. Now it’s 12:15, I am in full scale panic mode, imagining all sorts of things. I decide to search for them in the shopping mall. Sure enough, there they are, walking up and down the aisles trying things on. Arrgggh. That’s when it dawned on me that, when they are safely home, climbing Mt. Everest will probably seem like a leisurely, stress-free stroll in the park on a Sunday afternoon.
We spent the afternoon sightseeing, and it was so fun and interesting. We visited the Grand Palace which houses the royal residence and throne halls and is the site of several government office buildings. It is also the location of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. We then visited another temple which houses the famous Reclining Buddha. In the evening, we went on a dinner cruise on the Chaophraya River. The buffet dinner was great, and the music and entertainment were really enjoyable. We saw many famous temples that are located along the banks of the river. All the while, we were serenaded by karaoke singers. Lori, Amy and I danced to “You Aint’ Nothin But a Hound Dog”--Thai style of course. After we finished the cruise, we went to the Suam Lum Night Bazaar. When we arrived, Amy said “we hit the jackpot.” Lori & Amy shopped from 9:00 pm until midnight, when the bazaar closed. I slept in a chair on the street.
Bangkok is a busy metropolitan city. The air is pretty polluted from all the cars, and the traffic in the downtown area hardly moves. In fact, on the way back from our sightseeing trip, we sat in traffic that did not move one inch for over 15 minutes. Since we were on a tight schedule to get to our river cruise, we finally hopped out of the car and walked the remaining kilomteter to the hotel.
This morning, we were up at 6:30 am to pack for our trip to the airport so we could catch our 10:30 am flight to Kathmandu. We had to catch two cabs because of all our gear. Lori and Amy’s cab ride was a wild one, and we had an incident at the airport while checking in at Thai Air. I will let Amy describe these events in her post, which is coming soon.
Tonight, we are going in to Thamel to have dinner. I can’t wait to show my daughters around. It seems like just yesterday that I was here.
Go Bruins!
Bill |
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| 3/30/2008 |
I am getting ready to leave on an adventure of a lifetime! Tomorrow, I will fly to Thailand and ultimately end up at the base of the world’s tallest mountain--Mt. Everest!
There are a few reasons why I decided to make this big trip. First, my Dad has always been an inspiration to me my entire life. He has always supported me 100% in everything I do. He is always willing to listen to my dreams, ambitions, ideas and most of all just listen! I can’t wait to share in my Dad’s excitement as he introduces my sister and me to this mountain that he loves! Second, I have always wanted to go on a mission to help others in need. I got in touch with someone in Kathmandu who is very involved in missionary work. He is going to take my sister and me to a few orphanages, schools and homes to spend some time with the children and their families. My neighbors have so graciously donated clothes, shoes, medicine and toys for me to bring. My sister has been collecting Bibles to bring for the people as well. I can’t wait to work and play with these kids! Third, I am looking forward to traveling to a different part of the world and experiencing a completely different way of life. What an awesome experience!
I know it will be tough, but I want to prove to my family and myself that good things can come from embracing life's opportunities and challenges.
God is Good.
Amy |
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| 3/29/2008 |
Dear Family & Friends:
On Sunday, March 30, Lori, Amy and I will board a Thai Airlines flight to Bangkok, Thailand. We arrive in Bangkok on April 1 and will stay in the city until April 3 when we depart for Kathmandu, Nepal. We fly from Kathmandu to Lukla on April 6 to start our trek to Everest Base Camp. The trekking schedule is set forth in my March 6 report.
What a wild ride this has been over the past several weeks! As we leave the United States, the situation in Nepal regarding permits and climbing restrictions is still very much unsettled. About the only thing we know with any degree of confidence is that the Nepalese government will be issuing climbing and trekking permits. However, as of today, we still do not have our permit. We have no idea what sort of restrictions will be imposed on our climb of Mt. Everest. Even today, a popular Mt. Everest website is reporting the publication of draft “Temporary Rules” that rival the tax code in complexity and ambiguity. http://everestnews.com/everest2008/everest03282008.htm Just a few days ago, it was being reported that no restrictions would be imposed on our climb.
I am proceeding on faith that we will obtain our permit and have our shot at the summit. More importantly, I place my full trust in the Lord. Whatever happens will be for the best. My worst downside is that I get to revisit the magnificent Himalaya mountain range and share that sacred experience with my daughters. How bad can that be?
Bud and Terri Allen will not be joining us for this trek and climb. Bud’s commercial real estate business is booming, and he doesn’t feel it prudent to leave, especially with all the uncertainty concerning climbing restrictions. Bud and Terri will complete their trip in 2009. We will miss them, but we understand and support their decision. My friends, David Liano and Quang Than, are going, although David has abandoned his plan to complete an unprecedented double traverse of Mt. Everest because permits are not being issued by the Chinese on the North side of the mountain. David will instead complete his second summit of Mt. Everest from the South side and then climb neighboring Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world. He will use supplemental oxygen on the Everest climb, but will climb Lhotse without oxygen.
I want to correct an error in my previous report. The Chinese had wanted to traverse the mountain with the Olympic torch, moving up the South (Nepal) side and down the North (Tibet) side. Those plans have changed, and the torch will move up the North side and down the North side.
I am thrilled to have my daughters going with me for the trek to Base Camp. In a wonderful development, I have hired a highly competent sherpa to trek with them from Base Camp back to Lukla. His name is Puchhanga Bhote. He is 27-years old and is a citizen of Nepal who works as a trekking and mountain guide. He is also a Christian, which is somewhat unusual since most sherpas are Budhhists. He is very active in Christian, charitable and missionary activities in the Khumbu region and plans to take my daughters to visit schools, hospitals and orphanages.
My personal sherpa this year is Mingma Sherpa, who has summitted Mt. Everest 3 times and has also summitted Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kangguru. I look forward to meeting him when we arrive in Kathmandu.
I am totally psyched about this trip. I feel prepared, physically and mentally, for the challenge, and I have the advantage of knowing the mountain better than I did last year. I have thought about this trip almost every day since I turned around at the South summit at noon on May 21 of last year.
I had a special Everest cap made for my team and family. I have some extra caps that will be sold on my daughter, Lisa’s, website Charming Cards. All proceeds from these sales will be donated to the Angelman Syndrome Foundation. Lisa is also donating a portion of the proceeds from sales of other products on her website that come from this link to ASF in honor of my Training Partner, Ollie. Here is a link to the sale of the Everest cap: http://www.charmingcards.com/item.php?item_id=1290
My beloved life partner, and expedition reporter extraordinaire, Sharon, will faithfully transcribe my satellite telephone reports and post them on my website so you can keep up with my adventure. This is no small task. After I returned from the mountain last year, she played some of the tapes of my telephone reports. I could not decipher many of those reports. Thanks Sharon. I love you.
I will post my next report from Bangkok.
God bless all of you,
Bill Burke |
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| 3/14/2008 |
The last few days have had us on an emotional roller coaster over our Everest trip plans this year. First, the news is bad, then it is good, then it turns bad again, only to reverse itself and repeat the cycle.
Today, the news is good...well sort of good, at least for folks, like me, who are eternal optimists. On Friday, March 14, Nepal’s Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation announced that climbers on the South (Nepal) side of Mt. Everest will not be allowed to climb above Base Camp from May 1 to May 10. http://www.everestnews.com/everest2008/everestam03142008.htm
Left unclear is whether climbers can move up the mountain above Base Camp before May 1. Also left unresolved is what happens if bad weather prevents the Chinese from moving the Olympic torch to the summit during the May 1-May 10 blackout period. Intense and heated negotiations are ongoing in Nepal as the government tries to accommodate its large neighbor to the north while at the same time salvage its economy, which depends on trekkers, climbers and tourism. A firm decision is expected by March 20, just 10 days before our flights leave Los Angeles.
In the meantime, political unrest in the region is fueling the flames. The United States Embassy has reported rioting in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, and has advised American citizens in Lhasa to seek safe havens in hotels and other buildings and remain indoors to the extent possible. This civil unrest represents a protest ahead of the start of the torch relay later this month. Yesterday in India, Nepal’s neighbor to the south and home to many Tibetan exiles, including the Dalai Lama, police arrested protestors during a march opposing China’s hosting of the Olympic games. Tibetan refugees in Nepal were detained after thousands of them attempted to March to the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu with “Free Tibet” placards. A demonstration even took place in San Francisco, the only American city through which the torch will pass this year. These protests are likely to intensify and expand as the torch relay and the Beijing Games draw nearer. See Wall Street Journal, Friday March 14, 2008 at A8.
If the above compromise holds, I will probably travel to Mt. Everest this year. There are plenty of mountains near Mt. Everest that can be climbed as part of the acclimatization process before the route opens up after the torch moves up the mountain. For example, last year, in order to avoid the dreaded Khumbu Icefall as long as possible, our team climbed to Pumori Advanced Base Camp twice. Island Peak is also an option. The risk I will be taking is that the torch relay is delayed by bad weather and the government extends the blackout period beyond May 10. That is a risk I am willing to take.
“Our doubts are traitors, and make us lose the good we oft might win, by fearing to attempt.”
Shakespeare, Measure for Measure (Act I, Scene IV)
Who knows, maybe the Chinese will ask me to help carry the torch the last 100 meters up the mountain. Then again, they would probably not like seeing me unfurl my American flag on the summit.
Stay tuned.
Bill Burke |
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| 3/11/2008 |
Dear Family & Friends:
I have not even left the United States and the drama has already begun.
As most of you know, the Chinese plan to run the Olympic torch up the South side and down the North side of Mt. Everest as part of the 2008 Olympics. Permits to climb Mt. Everest from the North side are issued by the Chinese government since the North side of the mountain is located in Tibet. In a dramatic development, the Chinese government has just announced that it will not be issuing permits to climb Mt. Everest from the North side in the Spring of 2008 "due to concern of heavy climbing activity, crowded climbing routes and increasing environmental pressures...." The government has asked climbing expeditions to delay their trips to the mountain until after May 10. For insight as to the real motivation behind this action, see http://www.mounteverest.net/.
While fearful that this development could put undue pressure on the South side, as North side climbers scramble to salvage their trips, I was confident that my trip was in tact. In fact, I have already purchased non-refundable airplane tickets for my two daughters and myself and made a substantial payment to my trip organizer-Asian Trekking. However, yesterday its was reported that the Chinese government was putting pressure on the tiny country of Nepal to close down the South side for the 2008 season, leaving hundreds of trekkers and climbers stranded and depriving the people of Nepal of their much needed livelihood. It was also reported that the Nepalese Tourism Ministry had granted the request and was not going to allow trekkers or climbers to move above Gorak Shep until after May 12. This would not allow sufficient time for climbers to acclimatize on the mountain since the summit window opens up around May 17 and is usually closed by the end of the month.
Today, the news is much better. It is now being reported that the government of Nepal has worked out a compromise with the Chinese that will allow South side expeditions to continue as long as climbers do not move above Camp III (on the Lhotse Face) from May 1-May 10, which presumably is when the torch will be carried to the summit. This compromise will work for South side expeditions since the acclimatization program does not require moves above Camp III during this period.
None of this has been confirmed, so stay tuned.
Bill |
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| 3/6/2008 |
Dear Family & Friends:
This is an update of my plan to return to Mt. Everest in 2008. I climbed Mt. Everest in 2007, reaching the South Summit at 28,750 feet, just about 100 meters short of the true summit at 29,035 feet. For a summary of my reasons for turning around at the South Summit, please read my May 30, 2007 trip report filed under “2007 Everest Trip Reports” on this website. This year, I plan to return to Mt. Everest to complete the last 100 meters of the mountain of my dreams.
What’s New in 2008?
I will be joining an unguided expedition organized by Asian Trekking, a trip organizer based in Kathmandu, Nepal. I will be climbing again from the south side of the mountain located in Nepal. The main adjustment that I plan to make for 2008 is to take a rest day at Camp IV. In 2007, I made a single push from Camp III on the Lhotse Face (23,000 feet), to Camp IV on the South Col (26,000 feet), and from Camp IV to the Summit (29,035 feet), with almost no rest at Camp IV. I believe that I would have reached the summit in 2007 had I taken a rest day at Camp IV.
I will be posting expedition reports on this website every few days, just as I did in 2007. This year, however, I will be posting both written reports and audio reports. I also plan to post 6 reports on summit day: (i) a report on my departure from Camp IV (26,000 feet), (ii) a report on my arrival at the Balcony (27,600 feet), (iii) a report on my arrival at the South Summit (28,750 feet), (iv) a report on my arrival at the Hillary Step (28,900 feet), (v) a report on my arrival at the summit (29,035 feet) and (vi) a report on my return to Camp IV.
As always, I will be taking lots of photographs of the 35-mile trek to Everest Base Camp and the climb. However, this year, I will be taking video footage of the trek and the climb with a high definition video camera. I will combine the still photographs and the video footage in preparing a documentary that I will share with family and friends.
Team Everest 2008
I am excited that I will be trekking to Everest Base Camp and climbing Mt. Everest with both family and close friends. Here is “Team Everest 2008”:
Climbers
Bud Allen. Bud is a 49-year old commercial real estate developer from Columbus, Georgia. Bud and I climbed Aconcagua in December of 2003. Bud has climbed all of the 7 summits except Mt. Everest and Kosciuszko in Australia. Bud climbed Mt. Everest in 2006, but was forced to turn around because of a pulmonary infection. Bud’s hobby, in addition to mountaineering, is aerobatics, and, if you look to the skies around Columbus, you will often see him doing flips, spins, figure eights, rolls and loops in his Pitts S2A biplane. I just hope he never asks me to sit in the passenger seat.
David Liano. David is a 28-year old entrepreneur who lives in Mexico City. David and I climbed Vinson Massif in Antarctica in January of 2006. David has climbed all of the eight summits listed on this website and has also climbed Cho Oyu, the Matterhorn and Mt. Blanc. He has also climbed extensively in South America. David successfully climbed Mt. Everest from the south side in 2005. In addition to being a world class mountaineer, David is a world class marathon runner. This year, David plans to do a double traverse of Mt. Everest-climbing up the south side, down the north side, and then up the north side and down the south side. This has never been done before.
Quang Than. Quang is a 52-year old environmental engineer who works for the State of California and lives in Newport Beach, California. Quang has climbed Denali, Aconcagua, and Kilimanjaro. Quang attempted Mt. Everest in 2005, but gave up after being caught in an avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall and then falling approximately 60 feet on the descent to Base Camp. Quang was born in South Vietnam. In 1973, at the age of 18, he came to the United States to attend college thanks to the generosity of a college in Arkansas and an American friend who was working in Saigon for the State Department. His family (other than his oldest brother) joined him in 1975 at the end of the Vietnam War. His father and oldest brother were pilots in the South Vietnamese Air Force. After the Vietnam War, his brother was placed in a “Re-education Camp” run by the North Vietnamese. When he came down with acute appendicitis, his fellow prisoners, who were former surgeons in the South Vietnamese Army, removed his appendix without the benefit of medical equipment or anesthetics. After 6 years in the camp, he was released, and, happily, he now lives with the rest of the family in the United States. Quang became a United States citizen in 1980.
Bill Burke. I will turn 66 this month before I leave for Nepal. Last year, I became the oldest American to reach the South Summit. This year, I plan to become the oldest American to climb Mt. Everest. I believe I will also be the oldest person to reach all 8 summits after the age of 60.
Trekkers
Three brave trekkers will join us for the 35-mile trek to Everest Base Camp. After 2 nights at Base Camp (about the limit for any sane human being) the trekkers will return to Kathmandu and fly home. The trekkers are:
Terri Allen. Terri is Bud’s wife, and she trekked with Bud to Everest Base Camp in 2006. Terri works with Bud in his commercial real estate business. Bud describes Terri as an “extreme shopper.” As proof, Bud cites the fact that, when Terri returned to Kathmandu in 2006 after the trek to Base Camp, a civil war broke out and a strict curfew was imposed on the city. Terri never missed a minute of shopping in Kathmandu.
Lori Gardner. Lori is my daughter, and she lives in Newport Beach, California. Lori is married and has 4 children. Lori has an interior decorating business and is looking forward to finding authentic antiques and keepsakes that she can use in her business.
Amy Dillon. Amy is my daughter, and she also lives in Newport Beach, California. Amy is married and has 5 children, including Ollie, my training partner. See “My Training Partner” on this website. Amy is the only person I know (other than my wife) who can give Terri Allen a run for the money as the “Extreme Shopper Czar.”
Photos of all of these dear family members and friends can be found on this website under “Team Everest 2008.”
Trekking Schedule:
March 30-depart the United States
April 1-arrive in Bangkok
April 1-2-stay in Bangkok
April 3-fly to Kathmandu
April 3-5-stay in Kathmandu
April 6-fly to Lukla
April 6-trek to Phakding
April 7-trek to Namche Bazaar
April 7-9-stay in Namche Bazaar
April 10-trek to Pangboche
April 11-trek to Pheriche
April 12-trek to Lobuche
April 13-trek to Gorak Shep
April 14-trek to Everest Base Camp
April 15-stay at Everest Base Camp
April 16-trek to Lobuche
April 17-trek to Pangboche
April 18-trek to Namche Bazaar
April 19-trek to Lukla
April 20-fly to Kathmandu
April 20-22-stay in Kathmandu
April 23-fly home
Preparation for the Climb
My training regime has not changed much from 2007. Last year, I lost 30 pounds on Mt. Everest. I have regained all that weight, and my challenge has been to turn these pounds into muscle. I work out 3 times a week in a health club with running and upper and lower body weight exercises. I also climb extensively in the local mountains. For example, I recently completed a winter climb of Mt. Whitney. This was my 10th ascent of my favorite mountain, 6 times via the more challenging Mountaineer’s Route. I have also scaled Mt. San Antonio (Mt. Baldy), San Gorgonio and San Jacinto multiple times, and twice I completed the “Cactus-to-Clouds” climb from the desert in Palm Springs to the top of the Palm Springs Tram, an altitude gain of 8,500 feet in one day. Last summer, I traveled to the Grand Canyon with some close friends and completed a “Rim-to-Rim” hike, descending from the South Rim to the Colorado River and ascending from the Colorado River to the North Rim, all in one day. Every Sunday, my training partner, Oliver Dillon, and I bicycle for 30-50 miles along the coast and in the mountains and foothills of southern California. See “My Training Partner” on this website.
Thanks so much to all of you for your thoughts, prayers and support. I will think of you fondly and often on the mountain.
God bless you.
Bill Burke |
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| 11/3/2007 |
Dear Friends:
As most of you know, in 2008, I will return to Nepal for a reprise of my trip earlier this year. I hope to complete the last 100 meters of the mountain of my dreams...the magnificent Mt. Everest.
To that end, I have revised my website--Eight Summits--and I invite you to take a look at the changes. http://eightsummits.com. Here is a preview of what is new:
--I will be posting reports of my 2008 trip on the website. If you would like to read these reports, please register on my website and you will receive an e-mail notice when reports are posted. If you have already registered, you do not need to re-register. What is new for 2008 is that, on summit day, I plan to file 6 reports: (i) upon departure from Camp IV at the South Col (26,000 feet), (ii) upon arrival at the Balcony (27,600 feet), (iii) upon arrival at the South Summit (28,750 feet), (iv) upon arrival at the Hillary Step (28,900 feet), (v) upon arrival at the Summit (29,035 feet) and (vi) upon return to the South Col.
--I posted the photos from my 2007 Everest trip on the website. See “My Everest Photos.”
--In October, Sharon and I took my training partner, Oliver, on a round-trip train ride from Los Angeles to Seattle. We had a great time. See the photos on my website under “My Training Partner.”
--My daughter, Lisa, has a wonderful stationary card business that she runs from her home in Newport Beach. In honor of Ollie, she is donating 15% of the proceeds from sales through my website to the Angelman Syndrome Foundation, a charity that is dedicated to research and the improvement of the lives of disabled children and their parents. A link to her website can be found in my website. See “Charming Cards.”
I have regained the 30 pounds I lost on Mt. Everest, and Ollie and I are now back into our normal training regimen.
Your prayers and support meant so much to me during the 2007 expedition. I hope I can count on that same support in 2008.
As my plans for 2008 firm up, I will let you know.
Bill Burke |
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